Optimists have suggested that the pandemic has started reorienting our priorities around family and health rather than material goods. The Primark shoppers who camped out overnight in advance of reopening tell a different story—but those value shifts take time, and there's still hope for our industry to lead the way and change course. "It would be so beautiful to think people are calming down and the industry is uniting to set some new boundaries," Roche says. "To be more sustainable, to think about our environment and humankind and decency towards others… All of those things seem so basic and fundamental."
On the luxury side, designers and retailers are actively discussing how to become open and honest about price and quality. By explaining the origin of their fabrics, how their clothes are made, and who makes them, the hope is that customers will shop more confidently and will be motivated to invest in the story, not just the product or trend. In theory, that concept of mindful consumption could eventually trickle down to the high street. It isn't going to fix climate change or fashion's murky supply chain, but it's the best way we can begin to make a difference—and by "we," I mean those of us in the privileged position of having money to spend and the headspace to refine our shopping habits. The common rebuttal to the "fewer, better" approach is that some people can't afford to pay more for clothes, and that's absolutely true. But lower-income shoppers aren't the ones creating the mess; they aren't buying a new dress every week and then throwing it out. The people abusing the system are the ones who could afford to buy fewer, higher-quality items, and it's our responsibility to use our power and influence to raise the bar for everyone else.
Understanding scale also explains why a higher price doesn't always equate to better fabrics and fair labor. A polyester dress might retail for $400 because the label produced it in small quantities and paid its workers—but it's still polyester, and you shouldn't waste $400 on something so environmentally damaging. Or maybe the brand made it in huge quantities and used cheap labor, but hiked the price to convince you it's an elevated product. There's always going to be confusion when it comes to price, and some brands are always going to value "brand equity" over their workforces. The only way you'll really know if a price is worth your hard-earned cash is by digging deeper and demanding transparency from the brands you support.
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