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The straightforward answer is that it's probably higher than you think. Understanding where the number on a price tag comes from requires tallying every step of production—fabric, labor, shipping, packaging—and adding a profit margin. Let's assume a designer is using quality materials and paying its garment workers an above-average wage; the materials and labor will arguably be the highest costs. The industry standard for a profit margin is between a 2.2 and 2.5x markup, meaning a dress that cost a designer $100 to produce might be sold to a retailer for $220. That retailer has to mark it up by 2.2x again to make its own profit, bringing the final price up to $484. (You can see how the math for that $5 tee becomes nearly impossible.) The average shopper doesn't know any of that; she might assume the price is an arbitrary number the brand came up with to maximize its profits. She doesn't know where the profits are going, either; maybe they're covering overhead costs, like office space, employees, legal fees, and taxes, or they'll be reinvested in future collections.
On the luxury side, designers and retailers are actively discussing how to become open and honest about price and quality. By explaining the origin of their fabrics, how their clothes are made, and who makes them, the hope is that customers will shop more confidently and will be motivated to invest in the story, not just the product or trend. In theory, that concept of mindful consumption could eventually trickle down to the high street. It isn't going to fix climate change or fashion's murky supply chain, but it's the best way we can begin to make a difference—and by "we," I mean those of us in the privileged position of having money to spend and the headspace to refine our shopping habits. The common rebuttal to the "fewer, better" approach is that some people can't afford to pay more for clothes, and that's absolutely true. But lower-income shoppers aren't the ones creating the mess; they aren't buying a new dress every week and then throwing it out. The people abusing the system are the ones who could afford to buy fewer, higher-quality items, and it's our responsibility to use our power and influence to raise the bar for everyone else.
For those times at the ocean when you're not guaranteed a warm sun all day, consider swapping your usual button-up for a chunky cardigan instead. You'll still have the ease factor of being able to throw it over your shoulders, but it will add a touch of warmth should temperatures take a dip.
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